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Free Crochet Pattern: Lily’s Blanket

21/05/2018 by Dada Filed Under: Crochet baby blanket patterns, Free crochet patterns 9 Comments

If you love crochet blankets, stripes, simplicity and ease, then please continue reading, because this blanket is as simple and easy to make, as it is beautiful and stylish. And stripes surely add that modern touch to it.

You can make Lily’s blanket in just two colors (and I honestly think that gray-white combination might be the real winner), three colors, four colors (like I did), or as many colors as you like. By making every row (or every 2 or 3 rows) in different color it might be the ideal crochet project for going through all of the remaining yarn from your stash, which you don’t know what to do with.

Regarding the yarn, this pattern is not demanding at all. Although I used quality cotton yarn, you can make it with any beautiful, soft yarn. Even with acrylic yarn.

This blanket is worked back and forth in rows, and can be made in any size.
If you’d like to make a different size blanket, simply work the foundation chain to the desired width in a multiple of 6.

Crochet terms: Pattern is written using US crochet terminology. If you prefer UK terminology instead of double crochet make treble crochet, and that’s it! It’s that simple!

Level: Beginner
Size: 70 cm (27.5”) width, 100 cm (39”) length
Crochet hook: 4 mm (USA – G/6)
Gauge: 10 stitches and 9 rows in 10 cm (although gauge is not critical to this project)

Yarn:
Yarn Art – Ecco-cotton
100g/220m
85% cotton 15% polyester

● 3 skeins of gray (763)
● 1 skein of pink (766)
● 1 skein of yellow (764)
● 1 skein of turquoise (765)
or any Light worsted yarn (3 or Light)

So, let’s get started!

* To start, make a slip knot on your hook; (Picture 1)

* continue making foundation chain. Count your chains as you go, and stop when you reach the desired width in multiples of 6. I made ch-x. (Picture 2)

* Count fifth chain of your hook, (Picture 3)

* and make dc in that st. (Picture 4)

* Skip the next two chains, and make dc in the next ch. (Picture 5)

* Make one more dc in the same stitch; (Picture 6)

* Make ch-1, 2 dc in the same stitch. (Picture 7)

* skip the next two chs and make dc in the next ch, skip the next two chs and make [2 dc, ch-1, 2 dc] in the next ch. (Picture 8)

* Repeat from * until you are left with only 4 chs. Skip the next two sts, and make dc in the next two sts. We will make 2 dc at the end of each row. We will make ch-3 (which counts as dc) and dc at the beginning of each row. (Picture 9)

* Make ch-3 (counts as the first dc), (Picture 10)

* turn your work over, (Picture 11)

* and make dc in the next dc. (Picture 12)

* Skip the next two dc and make [2 dc, ch-1, 2 dc] in the next ch-1 space; (Picture 13)

* next dc, skip the next two dc and make [2 dc, ch-1, 2 dc] in the next ch-1 space; (Picture 14)

* Repeat from * until you’re left with only four sts. (Picture 15)

* Skip two dc, make dc in the next dc, and at the end make dc in the last dc. (Picture 16)

* And this is the all you need to know in order to make this blanket. Repeat this row until you reach the desired length.(Picture 17)

Written pattern row by row:

With gray color: Make foundation chain of 150 stitches.
Row 1: Make dc in the fifth chain from the hook, *skip 2 chs, [2 dc, ch-1, 2 dc] into the next ch, skip 2 chs, dc in the next ch; repeat from * 23 more times, dc in the last stitch.
Row 2: ch-3, dc in the next dc, * skip two dc, [2 dc, ch-1, 2 dc] into the next ch-1 space, skip 2 dc, dc in the next dc; repeat from * 23 more times, dc in the top of the initial ch-3.
Row 3 – 6: Repeat row 2. Change the color to pink in the last stitch of the 6th row.
Row 7 – 14: With pink color: Repeat row 2. Change the color to gray in the last stitch of the 14th row.
Row 15 – 20: With gray color: Repeat row 2. Change the color to yellow in the last stitch of the 20th row.
Row 21 – 28: With yellow color: Repeat row 2. Change the color to gray in the last stitch of the 28th row.
Row 29 – 34: With gray color: Repeat row 2. Change the color to turquoise in the last stitch of the 34th row.
Row 35 – 42: With turquoise color: Repeat row 2. Change the color to gray in the last stitch of the 42nd row.
Row 43 – 48: With gray color: Repeat row 2. Change the color to pink in the last stitch of the 48th row.
Row 49 – 56: With pink color: Repeat row 2. Change the color to gray in the last stitch of the 56th row.
Row 57 – 62: With gray color: Repeat row 2. Change the color to yellow in the last stitch of the 62nd row.
Row 63 – 70: With yellow color: Repeat row 2. Change the color to gray in the last stitch of the 70th row.
Row 71 – 76: With gray color: Repeat row 2. Change the color to gray in the last stitch of the 76th row.
Row 77 – 84: With turquoise color: Repeat row 2. Change the color to gray in the last stitch of the 84th row.
Row 85 – 90: With gray color: Repeat row 2. At the end of the 90th fasten off. Weave in the yarn end.

And now you have it! Very simple, but beautiful crochet blanket pattern! Hope you will like the pattern, and if you make it, please share it using the tag #lilysblanket. I would be thrilled to see your own creations of this pattern.

I’m planning on hosting a yarny giveaway related to this blanket very soon, so if you don’t want to miss it, please sign up for my newsletter, or follow me on social media: Facebok here, and Instagram here.

Happy crocheting!

Lazy Summer Day Blanket

02/04/2018 by Dada Filed Under: Crochet baby blanket patterns Leave a Comment

Can you remember long, lazy summer days when you were a child, and when it looked like all the nature, smells and sounds existed only to show you how great it is to be alive and free? This blanket reminds me of those times, so precious, carefree and serene. So, I decided to name this blanket “Lazy Summer Day” blanket.
Maybe this pattern looks familiar to you. That’s because I’ve already used the same granny squares to make my boho bags. When I finished writing the tutorial for those bags I knew that I would use this pattern again, because I loved the squares so much that I couldn’t resist making a blanket using those beautiful squares. And blankets are still my favorite things to crochet, in spite of “shawlmania” which I caught this past winter.

The blanket is square shaped, it is made of 36 squares, and measures 90 x 90 cm (35.5” x 35.5”). The squares measure approximately 13 x 13 cm (5” x 5”). I would say that this pattern is suitable for advanced beginners to intermediate crocheters. There are no complicated techniques or stitches in the pattern. Let me tell you something. I recently started learning to knit, and I was making my first knitted object, a really simple shawl. The pattern required knitting two stitches together. I must admit that I found it so difficult, that I almost gave up making the shawl. Nothing in crochet was so difficult, even at the beginning. I managed to finish that row of knitting two stitches together after several torturous hours with the help of another knitting needle, which I’d never seen anyone do, but there was no other way to accomplish that. So, crochet stitches are much easier and enjoyable to do than knitting two stitches together! If you can make a magic loop, you’ll be fine, because I explained everything else in detail, with a lot of step-by-step pictures.

This blanket can be made with any yarn, except maybe some woolly, chunky yarn. I love cotton yarn, and think that cotton, or some cotton mix is ideal for this summery blanket. I used pale powdery pink yarn “Tanja”, 100% cotton, 125m/50g, from Bimtex (Serbia). For the flowers I used a different cotton yarn of the same weight, which I already had in my stash.
Since the yarn I used for this blanket isn’t available on-line and you can’t get it if you live anywhere outside of Serbia (and it’s probably 99.9% of you) I would like to recommend two alternatives to the yarn I used. They’re both 100% cotton yarn, the same weight as “Tanja” yarn, and they’re gorgeous!
The first one is “Catona”, manufactured by Scheepjes, which you’re probably very familiar with, especially if you live in Europe. “Catona” has a very rich and beautiful color palette (somewhere over 100 shades!)
The second one is “Catania” from Schachenmayr. It also comes in a variety of colors (96 to be exact!), and looks beautiful.

The pattern is very detailed, with more than 90 step-by-step pictures explaining all the steps of the process. The pattern is written in English, in both US and UK crochet terms.
For those of you who have already bought my Boho bag pattern I have some good news. If you want to receive this pattern for free, just send me an email and say that you have already bought the bag pattern and I will send this pattern to you as a gift.

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Lazy Summer Day blanket pattern & step-by-step tutorial is now available in Dada’s place shop, (payment options: Credit cards & PayPal).

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You can also buy it in my Ravelry shop and in my Etsy shop. (payment option: PayPal)

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Free Crochet Pattern: The Whisper of Joy Blanket

12/02/2018 by Dada Filed Under: Crochet baby blanket patterns, Crochet blankets, Free crochet patterns 21 Comments

I named this blanket “The Whisper Of Joy” because it reminds me of childhood, of that carefree time when joy was an important part of almost every long, seemingly endless day. So, I tried to bring you at least a little joy with this colorful and easy to make free blanket pattern.

Now, you might be wondering “why a free pattern?” The answer is: because I know that you love free stuff, and I appreciate you very much, my loyal followers, and I wanted to give you something! The free crochet pattern is the best gift for anyone who enjoys crocheting, especially making crochet blankets. (As I do.) So, here it is, my gift to you!

This blanket is made of 64 granny squares. Each square has only four rows. The squares are joined with single crochet. The border is very simple and has 5 rows.

This tutorial is written in US crochet terms.

Skill level: Advanced beginner – Intermediate

Yarn: Alize
● 2 skeins of Alize Cotton Gold Batik 3304 – color A (100g/330m 3.53Oz/361yds)
● 3 skeins of Alize Cotton Gold 62 – color B (100g/330m 3.53Oz/361yds)

Crochet hook: 4 mm (US – G / 6)

Size: 82 cm (32”) x 82 cm (32”)

Gauge: the square measures 10 cm (4”) x 10 cm (4”)

Stitch guide:

Chain stitch (ch): Yarn over, draw yarn through loop on hook.

Slip stitch (slip st): Insert the hook into stitch, yarn over and draw yarn through stitch and through loop on your hook.

Single crochet (sc): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw yarn through both loops on hook.

Half double crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw yarn through three loops on hook.

Double crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, draw yarn through two loops, yarn over, draw yarn through two remaining loops on hook.

Treble crochet (tr): Yarn over twice, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through two loops (three loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through two loops (two loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through two remaining loops on hook.

5 dc Popcorn stitch: ch-3, make 4 dc in same space, drop loop from hook, insert hook from front to back between ch-3 and first dc, grab dropped loop, yarn over, draw yarn through two loops on hook.

Standing single crochet: Make a slip knot on your hook. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw yarn through both loops on hook.

So, let’s get started!

With Color A: We will start with a magic ring. Make ch-5 in the ring. (counts as tr + ch-1) – Picture 1

Make * tr, ch-1 in the ring. – Picture 2

Repeat from * ten more times; you should have 12 tr, ch-1 between each tr. – Picture 3

Pull the yarn tail and close the ring. – Picture 4

Join with slip st to the fourth chain of the initial ch-5. – Picture 5

Make slip st in the next ch-1 space. – Picture 6

Make ch-3. Now, we’re going to make a beginning popcorn stitch. – Picture 7

Make 4 dc in the same space; – Picture 8

Drop the loop from your hook and insert it into the third chain of the initial ch-3. – Picture 9

Grab the dropped loop with your hook, yarn over, – Picture 10

and pull the yarn through both loops on the hook. The first popcorn is finished! – Picture 11

Make ch-3, – Picture 12

then 5 dc in the next ch-1 space; – Picture 13

Drop the loop from your hook and insert it under both loops of the first dc of the group of 5 dc; – Picture 14

Grab the dropped loop, yarn over, – Picture 15

and draw the yarn through both loops on your hook; make ch-3; – Picture 16

Make * 5 dc popcorn stitch in the next ch-1 space, ch-3; – Picture 17

Repeat from * nine more times; – Picture 18

Join with slip st to the top of the beginning popcorn. You should have 12 popcorns with ch-3 between each popcorn. – Picture 19

Insert Color B into any ch-3 space and make ch-3; – Picture 20

make dc in the same space; – Picture 21

make 4 dc in the next ch-3 space; – Picture 22

Continue making 4 dc into each ch-3 space, until you reach the beginning of the round; – Picture 23

make 2 dc in the first ch-3 space where you’ve already made ch-3 and dc; (48 dc) – Picture 24

Join with slip st to the top of the initial ch-3; – Picture 25

make ch-2 (counts as hdc), then hdc in the next dc; – Picture 26

make dc in the next 3 dc; – Picture 27

 make tr in the same stitch, where you’ve just made dc; – Picture 28

(tr, ch-2, tr) in the next dc; – Picture 29

make * (tr, dc) in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 dc, hdc in the next 5 dc, dc in the next 2 dc, (dc, tr) in the next dc, (tr, ch-2, tr) in the next dc; – Picture 30

repeat from * two more times; – Picture 31

make (tr, dc) in the next dc, dc in the next 2 dc, hdc in the next 3 dc; – Picture 32

Now, we’re going to make an invisible join. Cut the yarn and pull it through the stitch. – Picture 33

Thread the tapestry needle. Skip the initial ch-2 and insert your needle under both loops of the next hdc, from back to front and pull it through. – Picture 34

Insert your needle back to the last hdc you made, through the back loop only and pull it through. – Picture 35

Weave in the yarn end.

The finished square! – Picture 36

How to join the squares

● When you finish all 64 squares needed for the blanket, it’s time to join them together. We’re going to join our squares with single crochet.
● We will first join together all the horizontal rows, and then all the vertical rows.
● We’ll start from the top right-hand corner and we’ll join the squares together from right to left.
● I decided to join my squares with the same color I used for the background, but you can choose to use some contrast color, and make the blanket even more interesting and unique.
● For the best result block your squares before joining.

Lay out your squares in the way you want them to appear on the blanket. – Picture 37

I like to make a pile of squares for each row – so I don’t have to think about which square I should join next. – Picture 38

Now, we’re going to join our first two horizontal rows together, so, take the first two squares, one from the first pile and one from the second pile. – Picture 39

Put them together – facing wrong sides together. Line up your squares so the edges and stitches match. – Picture 40

Make a slip knot on your hook, because we’re going to make a standing single crochet. – Picture 41

Insert the hook from front to back through ch-2 space of both squares, and make standing sc (yo, pull up a loop, yo, and draw the yarn through both loops on your hook). Make sc in the same space. – Picture 42

Now, we’re going to make sc in the next stitch. Be sure to pull the hook through both squares, and both loops – front and back. – Picture 43

Work 1 sc in each stitch until you reach the left corner of the square. Make 1 sc in ch-2 space. – Picture 44

Take the next two squares facing wrong sides together and lean them against the first two squares. – Picture 45

Keeping them close together, make 1 sc in ch-2 space. – Picture 46

Keep working 1 sc in every stitch. When you’ve joined the second pair of squares, take another 2 and repeat the procedure until you join all 8 pairs of squares. – Picture 47

When you reach the corner of the last pair of squares, make 2 sc in ch-2 space. Fasten off. – Picture 48

These are our two first horizontal rows joined together. – Picture 49

Now, we will join the third row to the second one.

Take a square from your third pile and hold it against the first square of the second row, facing wrong sides together. – Picture 50

Make standing sc in ch-2 of the corner, then 1 sc in the same space. Continue joining the third row in the same way you joined the first two horizontal rows. Don’t forget to make 2 sc in the left corner of the last pair of squares. – Picture 51

Continue joining horizontal rows in the same way you’ve already joined your first three rows. To finish joining all 8 horizontal rows, you need to repeat this procedure five more times. – Picture 52

We will join the vertical rows in the same way we joined the horizontal rows. We’ll work from right to left. Start with the squares in the upper right hand corner.

Make standing sc in ch-2 space of the corner, sc in the same space, work 1 sc in each stitch, until you reach the join of two squares; – Picture 53

make 1 hdc in the last stitch before the join, ch-1, 1 hdc in the first stitch after the join. – Picture 54

Continue joining the squares until you join together all of your vertical rows. Don’t forget to make 2 sc in the left corner of the last pair of squares of each row. Weave in the yarn ends. – Picture 55

Now, we just have to make our simple border.

We will start the border in the fourth stitch to the right of the left corner. – Picture 56

Attach the yarn and make ch-2 (counts as hdc), make hdc in the next three stitches; – Picture 57

make (hdc, ch-3, hdc) in the next ch-2 space; – Picture 58

Continue making 1 hdc in each stitch. When you reach the join of two squares, make hdc in the last stitch before the join, and hdc in the first stitch after the join. – Picture 59

Make 1 hdc in each stitch around the blanket, in the corners make: (hdc, ch-3, hdc) in ch-2 space. – Picture 60

When you reach the beginning of the row, join with slip stitch to the top of the beginning ch-2; make slip stitch in the next hdc. – Picture 61

make ch-4 (counts as dc + ch-1), skip the next hdc, make dc in the next hdc; – Picture 62

ch-1, skip the next hdc, (dc, ch-3, dc) in the next ch-3 space; – Picture 63

* ch-1, skip the next hdc, dc in the next hdc; repeat from * around the blanket. In the corners make (dc, ch-3, dc) in ch-3 space. When you reach the beginning of the row, ch-1, join with slip st to the third chain of the initial ch-4; we’ve just completed the second row of the border. The third row is the same as the second, so make ch-4 (counts as dc + ch-1), skip the next ch-1 space, dc in the next dc; work ch-1, skip the next ch-1 space, dc in the next dc around the blanket. In the corners make: (dc, ch-3, dc) in ch-3 space. – Picture 64

When you reach the beginning of the row, join with slip st to the third chain of the initial ch-4, then repeat the third row. – Picture 65

Join with slip st to the third chain of the initial ch-4; – Picture 66

Now, we’re going to make a simple row of single crochet along the blanket.

make ch-1, sc in the same stitch; – Picture 67

* make sc in the next ch-1 space, sc in the next dc; repeat from * around the blanket; – Picture 68

in the corners make 3 hdc in ch-3 space; – Picture 69

We will finish the blanket with an invisible join, so cut the yarn and pull it through the stitch. Thread a tapestry needle. – Picture 70

skip ch-1 and insert your needle under both loops of the next sc, from back to front and pull it through; – Picture 71

insert your needle into the last sc you made, in back loop only, from front to back and pull it through. – Picture 72

This is how my invisible join looks. – Picture 73

Feel free to sell the finished products made from this pattern, but please link back to my site: dadasplace for credit. And, please don’t use my pictures to sell your work.

Although this pattern is free, it is copyright protected, so please don’t sell or publish this pattern anywhere, don’t translate it, or make YouTube videos without my permission. Thank you for respecting my work!

Hope you will like the pattern, and maybe will try it out! If so, I would love to see it! Please be free to share it to my Facebook page, or on Instagram, and use hash tag #whisperofjoyblanket. I’m looking forward to seeing your beautiful creations, and that will bring me a lot of joy!

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