Free crochet patterns

Free Primavera flower blanket joining and border tutorial

24/11/2017 by Dada Filed Under: Crochet blankets, Free crochet patterns 56 Comments

The Primavera flower square is undoubtedly my most popular free tutorial. I’m so happy and grateful that so many of you gave it a try and made really beautiful blankets and pillowcases. Since I didn’t write the tutorial for the whole blanket, many of you asked me how I had joined the squares and made the border, so I decided to make those tutorials too, so anyone who wants to make the exact same blanket as I did, now can do so.

Ok, I’ve already shown you how to make the Primavera flower granny square. (Click here to check it out if you haven’t already) Now, I will show you how to easily join them together with single crochet. This joining method is very simple. So, let’s get started!

Crochet terms: This tutorial is written using standard US crochet terms. UK terms are given in brackets.

Skill level: Beginner

Yarn: For this Primavera flower blanket I used 100% cotton yarn 125m/50g “Tanja” from Bimtex (manufacturer from Serbia)

We will use the following stitches: slip stitch, single crochet (double crochet), standing single crochet (standing double crochet), chain stitch, half double crochet (half treble crochet), 5dc popcorn stitch (5 tr popcorn stitch) and invisible join.

Stitches:

Slip stitch (slip st): Insert the hook into stitch, yarn over and draw yarn through stitch and through loop on your hook.

Single crochet (sc): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw yarn through both loops on hook.

Standing single crochet: Make a slip knot on your hook. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw yarn through both loops on hook.

Chain stitch (ch): Yarn over, draw yarn through loop on hook.

Half double crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw yarn through three loops on hook.

5 dc Popcorn stitch: ch-3, make 4 dc in same space, drop loop from hook, insert hook from front to back between ch-3 and first dc, grab dropped loop, yarn over, draw yarn through two loops on hook.

Lay out your squares in the way you want them to appear on your blanket. We will first join together all the horizontal rows, and then all the vertical ones. We’ll start form the top right hand corner and we’ll join the squares together from right to left.

My blanket has 64 granny squares in total, eight horizontal rows, and eight vertical ones. I decided to join my squares with white color, but you can choose to use the same color as the background of the squares, or whatever other color you like. The choice is all yours, so be creative!

I like to make a pile of squares for each row – the first square is at the top of the pile, and the last one is at the bottom. That way I don’t have to think about which square I should join next.
(Picture 1)

We will start with standing single crochet, so make a slip knot on your hook. (Picture 2)

Now, we’re going to join our first two horizontal rows together, so you will need the first squares from the pile no. 1 and no. 2. (Picture 3)

Take the first square from both piles and put them together – facing wrong sides together. Line up your squares so the edges and stitches match. (Picture 4)

Insert your hook from front to back through ch-2 space of both squares, and make standing single crochet (standing double crochet) (Picture 5)

Make single crochet (double crochet) in the same space. (Picture 6)

Now, we’re going to make sc (dc) in the next stitch. Be sure to pull the hook through both squares, and both loops – front and back. (Picture 7)

Finished sc (dc) (Picture 8)

Continue working 1 sc (dc) into every stitch. (Picture 9)

When you reach the left corner, make 1 sc (dc) in ch-2 space. (Picture 10)

Take the next pair of squares facing wrong sides together and lean them against the first two squares. (Picture 11)

Keeping them close together, make 1 sc (dc) in the next ch-2 space. (Picture 12)

Keep working 1 sc (dc) into every stitch. When you’ve joined the second pair of squares, take the third pair (Picture 13) and repeat the procedure until you have joined all 8 pairs (my case) of squares. When you reach the left corner of the last pair of squares, make 2 sc (dc) in ch-2 space.

These are my first two rows joined together. (Picture 14)

Now, take the third pile of squares and join the third row in the same way you joined the first and the second row together. (Picture 15)

Continue joining horizontal rows in the same way until you have joined them all together. (Picture 16)

We will join the vertical rows in the same way we joined the horizontal rows. We’ll work from right to left. Start with the squares in the upper right hand corner.

Join the first two squares in the same way we joined the horizontal squares before, until you reach the point where your horizontal join meets your vertical join. Make hdc (htr) in the last stitch before the join, ch-1, then make hdc (htr) in the first stitch after the join. (Picture 17)

When you reach the second join, repeat the previous procedure. (Picture 18)

These are my first two vertical rows joined together. (Picture 19) Don’t forget to make 2 sc (dc) in the left corner of the last pair of squares.

Continue joining the squares until you join together all of your vertical rows. Don’t forget to make 2 sc (dc) in the left corner of the last pair of squares of each row. Weave in the yarn ends. (Picture 20)

Now, we just have to make the border!

We will start the border with standing sc (dc), so make a slip knot on your hook. Make standing sc (dc) in any stitch. Work 1 sc (dc) in each stitch until you reach the join of two squares. (Picture 21)

Make 1 hdc (htr) into the last stitch before the join, and 1 hdc (htr) into the first stitch after the join. (Picture 22)

Continue working 1 sc (dc) into each stitch; When you reach the corner make 3 hdc (htr) into ch-2 space. (Picture 23)

Work 1 sc (dc) along the blanket until you reach the beginning of the row. (Picture 24)

Join with slip st to the standing sc (dc), make ch-1, then sc (dc) in the same stitch. (Picture 25)

The second row is the same as the first, so make 1 sc (dc) into each stitch, until you reach the corner. (Picture 26)

Make 3 sc (dc) in the second hdc (htr) of the group of 3 hdc (htr) we made previously in ch-2 space of the corner. (Picture 27)

Work 1 sc (dc) into each stitch along the blanket until you reach the beginning of the second row. (Picture 28)

Join with slip st to the first sc (dc), make ch-1, then sc (dc) into the same stitch. (Picture 29)

Work 1 sc (dc) into each stitch; When you reach the corner, make 3 sc (dc) in the second sc (dc) of the group of 3 sc (dc) (Picture 30)

Continue working 1 sc (dc) in each stitch, and make 2 sc (dc) in one stitch on each side of the blanket. We need an extra stitch on each side of the blanket for the border later. (Picture 31)

When you reach the beginning of the row, cut the yarn and pull it through the stitch. (Picture 32) We’re going to make an invisible join.

Thread a tapestry needle. Skip the first sc (dc) and insert your needle under both loops of the next sc (dc) from back to front and pull it through. (Picture 33)

Insert the needle back into the last sc (dc) you made, from front to back, through the back loop only, and pull it through. (Picture 34)

Now, we have to count the stitches from the corner stitch, so I marked it with a pin. It’s the second sc (dc) of the group of 3 sc (dc). (Picture 35)

Count six stitches to the right of the corner stitch. Insert the white yarn into that stitch and make ch-3 (counts as hdc (htr) + ch-1). (Picture 36)

Skip the next st, make hdc (htr) into the next stitch, ch-1, skip the next st, hdc (htr) in the next stich, ch-1; (Picture 37)

Skip the next stitch, make hdc (htr) into the next stitch (corner stitch), ch-2, hdc (htr) into the same stitch. We just made the first corner. (Picture 38)

Make * ch-1, skip the next stitch, hdc (htr) into the next stitch; Repeat from * along the blanket. In the corners make: hdc (htr), ch-2, hdc (htr) into the same stitch. (Picture 39)

When you reach the beginning of the row, make ch-1; (Picture 40)

Join with slip st to the second chain of the initial ch-3. (Picture 41)

Make slip st into the next ch-1 space. (Picture 42)

Skip the next hdc (htr) and make another slip st into the next ch-1 space. (Picture 43)

Now, we’re going to make a popcorn stitch, so make ch-3. (Picture 44)

Make 3 dc (tr) in the same chain space; (Picture 45)

Drop the lop from your hook, and insert it between the initial ch-3 and the first dc (tr) of the group of 3 dc (tr); (Picture 46)

Grab the dropped loop with your hook, (Picture 47)

yarn over, (Picture 48)

and pull the yarn through both loops on your hook. (Picture 49)

Make ch-3; (Picture 50)

then make slip stitch in the same space. (Picture 51)

Make slip st in the next 2 chain spaces, then ch-3; (Picture 52)

Make popcorn stitch, ch-3, slip st in the same space. (Picture 53)

Make * slip st in the next two ch-1 spaces, ch-3, popcorn stitch, ch-3, slip st in the same space; Repeat from * around the blanket. (Picture 54)

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, and if you make your own Primavera flower blanket I would love to see it! You can post your pictures on my Facebook page, or share on social media. Please use the hashtag #primaveraflowerblanket

Happy crocheting!

Free Rainbow Ruffle Blanket Tutorial

03/03/2017 by Dada Filed Under: Free crochet patterns 100 Comments

The Rainbow Ruffle blanket is super warm, soft, cuddly, and so easy to make! The pattern is unbelievably simple, the entire blanket is crocheted in double crochet. The ruffle is added at the end, in front loops between two different colors.

Skill level: Beginner – I made this tutorial to be super easy, even for beginners. All you have to do is to grab your crochet hook, make some coffee or tea, and follow the pictures. I like to call my tutorials brain friendly, because you don’t have to think at all and figure things out. Which is a good thing, I think. You can relax and enjoy yourself, and at the same time make something useful and beautiful.

The tutorial is written in standard US crochet terms, but if you’re from the United Kingdom, you can easily follow the tutorial, just make treble crochet instead of double crochet, and that’s it! The other 2 stitches are the same (chain stitch, and slip stitch). Yes! It’s that simple!

Stitches: chain stitch, double crochet, slip stitch

Special stitches: standing dc – Make a slip knot on the hook, yarn over, insert your hook into desired stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 remaining loops.

Crochet hook: 3.5 mm (USA – size 4/E, UK – 9)

Gauge: 20 dc and 5 rows = 4” (10cm)

Size: 25.6” (65cm) wide x 27.5” (70cm) long. The blanket weights 507g

Yarn: “Golf” (St. George) 100% cotton 125m/50g, “Cotton classic” (St. George) 120m/50g
• Yellow (Cotton Classic – No. 0023) 1 skein of 50g
• Pink (Cotton Classic – No. 0005) 2 skeins of 50g
• Lavender (Cotton Classic – No. 0028) 2 skeins of 50g
• Orange (Golf – No. 0950) 2 skeins of 50g
• Turquoise (Golf – No. 0911) 2 skeins of 50 g
• Green (Golf – No. 0981) 1 skein of 50 g
• White (Tango – No. 0006) 3 skeins of 50g

Notes:
I recommend weaving in yarn ends as you go.

This blanket is worked back and forth in rows, and can be made in any size. You can adjust the size simply by adding or decreasing the number of stitches of foundation chain, and adding or decreasing the number of rows.

So, let’s get started!

Before you start, decide on how big you’d like your blanket to be. For example, my blanket is 63 cm wide, so I made the foundation chain of 130. To start, make a slip knot on your hook, (picture 1) and continue making foundation chain. (picture 2)

Measure your chain as you go, and stop when you reach the desired length. For the purpose of this tutorial, I made the foundation chain of only 30 stitches, 14 cm long.

When you’re satisfied with the length of your foundation chain, make 3 more stitches, which will count as the first dc. I marked the stitch where you should make the first dc. (picture 4) It’s the fourth stitch from the hook. So, make the first dc in that stitch. (picture 5)

Continue making 1 dc into each stitch, until you reach the end of the row. (picture 6) It’s important that you have the same number of stitches in each row. I made the foundation chain of 30, and added ch-3 (counts as the first dc) which means that I should have 31 stitches. (30+1)

Now, we’re going to make the second row of the same color. Make ch 3 – counts as dc, (picture 7) then turn your work over, (picture 8) and see where you should make your first dc. It’s the next dc. (picture 8)

Make dc in the next dc, (picture 9) and continue working 1 dc into each dc, until you reach the last stitch, which is ch-3, marked by the arrow in picture 10. Be careful not to skip that last stitch because it’s very easy to overlook it. When you have made dc in the last dc of the row, it seems that you’ve completed the row, but you haven’t. If you count your stitches, you will see that you have 1 stitch less than in your previous row. So, pay attention to that! It would be a big mistake to miss that last stitch. It would make your blanket narrower after each row. So, make the last dc of the row in the third chain of ch-3. Now, you’ve completed the row. (picture 11)

Cut the yarn and pull it through the stitch (picture 12). I recommend you count your stitches to see if you have the same number in both rows. It’s important to keep the same number of stitches, to have straight, even edges. Now, take the second color of your choice, we’re going to work 2 rows of dc with the next color. If you’d like to make the same blanket as mine, look at the color chart at the end of this tutorial. We will use only the back loops, because we’ll need the front loops for the ruffle later.

Turn your work over so that the first stitch on the right is the last dc we’ve just made. I started the row with standing dc, (make a slip knot on your hook, yarn over, insert your hook into indicated stitch and make regular dc) but you can also start with ch-3. Be sure to make standing dc or ch-3 into back loop of the first dc of the row. (picture 13) So, let’s take a closer look at the front and back loops. (picture 14) You can see in picture 15 that I inserted my hook only through the back loop out of the two loops, and it’s the loop farther away from me.

Make dc into the back loop of the next dc. (picture 16) Continue working 1 dc into each dc, (in back loop) until you reach the last stitch of the row, which is ch-3. (picture 17) Remember? Don’t skip it, but make the last dc of the row in the third chain of ch-3. (picture 18)

Make ch-3, turn your work over, (picture 19) and make dc into the next dc – in both loops. (picture 20) Work 1 dc into both loops of each dc, along the row, until you reach the last stitch, which is standing dc. (picture 21)

Make dc into standing dc. (picture 22) Cut the yarn and pull it through the stitch. Turn your work over, the last dc you’ve just made should be the stitch where you’ll start your next row. Change the color. Again, we will work only in back loops. Start the first row of the next color with standing sc. (or ch-3) Make standing dc into the back loop of the first dc. (picture 23) Make dc in the back loop of the next dc. (picture 24)

Continue working 1 dc into back loop of each dc to the end of the row. Remember not to skip the last stitch – ch-3! (picture 25) Make ch-3, turn your work over, and make dc into both loops of the next dc. (picture 26) Continue along the row, in the same way, making 1 dc into both loops of each dc until you reach the end of the row. (picture 27) Cut the yarn and pull it through the stitch.

Once you’ve finished the first 6 rows of the blanket, (two rows of three different colors) it should look like this. (picture 28) This is the “right” side of the blanket, where you can see the front loops. Insert the next color of your choice and make the next 2 rows in the same way we’ve made our previous rows. (picture 29) It’s important to always make the first row of the new color on the “right” side of the blanket. Work the first row of each color only in the back loops, turn your blanket over, and work the second row in both loops. Fasten off. Continue adding two rows of different color to your blanket until you reach the desired length. (picture 30)

If you’re like me, and didn’t listen to my advice to weave in yarn ends as you went along, now you’re left with a whole bunch of yarn ends to weave in. So, make yourself a cup of coffee or a favorite tea, turn on some pleasant, calming music and try to enjoy the work… It’s important that you weave in ends on the “wrong” side of the blanket, the side without visible front loops. (picture 31)

Now, we just have to add a ruffle. Don’t worry, it’s very easy to do. We will use the front loops. (picture 32) Attach white yarn to the front loop of the first stitch and make ch-5. (picture 33) Make slip stitch into the next dc. (picture 34)

You may find making the ruffle a little tricky at first, but once you’ve figured it out, it will be pretty easy, especially if you bend the blanket along the row you’re working on. (picture 35) Continue making ch-5, then slip stitch into the next dc along the blanket. (picture 36)

And eventually, after many ch-5 and slip stitches we’ve finally finished our first ruffle row! Congratulations! (picture 37)

Continue making ruffle in front loops between two different colors. (picture 38)

And finally, when you’re totally exhausted from making so many chains and slip stitches, and ruffles, you realized that your blanket is finally done! I only hope that at the end you will think that it was totally worth the time and effort you invested in this blanket!

This is the color scheme that I used for my Rainbow Ruffle Blanket.

***************

Feel free to sell the finished products made from this pattern, but please link back to my site: dadasplace.com for credit. And, please don’t use my pictures to sell your work.

Although this pattern is free, it is copyright protected, so please don’t sell or publish this pattern anywhere, don’t translate it, or make YouTube videos without my permission. Thank you for respecting my work!

I hope you will like this tutorial, and if you make your own Rainbow Ruffle Blanket I would love to see it! You can share the pictures of your Rainbow Ruffle Blanket to my Facebook page, or tag me on Instagram.

Happy crocheting! Let me know in the comments how you like the tutorial!

Click here to check out Dada’s place shop.

Rainbow Ruffle Baby Blanket

01/09/2016 by Dada Filed Under: Free crochet patterns 24 Comments

I don’t know why, but the first thing that comes to my mind when I saw a rainbow is a childhood. It seems that the world was more colorful when we were little children, or maybe we just payed more attention to colors. Anyway, this blanket brings me back to my carefree early childhood, when life and I were very close, that I couldn’t differentiate myself from the life. We were one, and the same. Happy times. That’s why I so much love this blanket!

The second reason why I so much love this blanket is because it’s very simple and easy to make, which is always a good thing! Right? Even beginners can enjoy making it, and have great results!

Now, let’s talk about the yarn! For this baby blanket I used 3 kinds of yarn. The first one is a new yarn from St. George called “Cotton Classic”, and as its name says, it’s 100% cotton yarn (which I really love), 120m/50g, then I used “Golf”, also 100% cotton, 125m/50g, and I used white “Tango” yarn (100% cotton, 125m/50g). So, if you decide to make this blanket (I will make the pattern soon, I promise!), you can also use different brands of yarn, or you can use leftovers. It’s only important that the yarn weight is about the same.

The blanket is approximately 70cm (27.5″) long and 63cm (25″) wide. It’s ideal size for a newborn baby. You can also use it as a stroller blanket, and I bet that everyone will stare at your precious little baby!

I used 3.5 mm crochet hook (USA – size 4/E, UK – 9). The blanket is very warm. I think that this pattern is very suitable for many other things, like pillows and cushions, bags, scarfs, shawls, bath rugs…

So, as I’ve already promised, I will make the pattern for this blanket. If you’d like to make it, and don’t want to miss it, check out my blog occasionally, or follow me on Facebook. Have a nice, colorful week! And pay attention to important things, like colors!

Update: The free pattern and step-by-step tutorial is now available. Click here to get the pattern.