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Enjoy the silence shawl free pattern

05/05/2018 by Dada Filed Under: Free crochet patterns, Scarves and shawls 6 Comments

Do you want to add to your wardrobe by making something with your own hands? Then, you’re in the right place! Do you want to express your creativity through crochet but you aren’t very experienced in it? Or maybe, you’ve just started your crochet adventure, but you’d like to make something beautiful and useful immediately? Then you’re in the right place! Are you an experienced crocheter, but you’d like to watch your favorite TV show while crocheting, so you need something easy to work on? Then you’re in the right place!

Because this shawl is a great contribution to your wardrobe, and it’s so easy to make that every beginner would be capable of making it. Plus you can watch your favorite podcast or TV show, and after some time you will have something beautiful to wear around your neck.

Pattern is written using US crochet terminology. UK terms are given in brackets.

Level: Beginner
Size: 300 x 35 cm (118” x 12”)
Crochet hook: 3.5mm (USA-E / UK-9)
Gauge: 19 st in 10 cm

The shawl is very long, narrow and symmetrical. It is crocheted from one tip of the triangle to the other, from point A to point B. If you want your shawl to be shorter and wider, instead of double treble crochet (triple treble crochet) use treble crochet (double treble crochet). Start with one color; change the color when you have gone through the whole skein of yarn. Repeat that until you finish all 6 skeins.

We will always increase/decrease the width on the same side of the shawl. We’ll increase every row by one stitch until we reach the widest point of the shawl. From that point we’re going to decrease every row by one stitch.

Material needed:

For this shawl you can use whatever yarn you like, I’d only advise against using chunky yarn, because it doesn’t drape very well. I used 100% cotton yarn 125m/50g

3 skeins (50g) of “Tango color” no. 0092 – 100% cotton 125m/50g
3 skeins (50g) of “Tango color” no. 0192 – 100% cotton 125m/50g

In this step-by-step tutorial you will learn how to do the increase/decrease. And that’s the only thing you should know in order to make this super easy shawl.

Row 1: Start with a magic ring. Make ch-5 in the ring. Counts as dtr (trtr) – Picture 1

Make 3 dtr (trtr) in the ring. (4 st in total) – Picture 2

Pull the tail and close the ring. – Picture 3

Row 2: Make ch-5, – Picture 4

then turn your work over. – Picture 5

Make dtr (trtr) in the same stitch; (increase) – Picture 6

Make dtr (trtr) in the next 2 stitches. – Picture 7

Make dtr (trtr) in the fifth chain of the initial ch-5. – Picture 8

I put the stitch marker on the side where we will do the increase. – Picture 9

Row 3: Make ch-5, turn over your work. Since this is the side where we don’t do the increase, we will not make dtr (trtr) in the same stitch. – Picture 10

Instead, we will make dtr (trtr) in the next 3 st. Now, we need to do the increase, but I don’t like to do it in ch-5 (which is the last stitch). – Picture 11

Instead, we will do the increase in the last dtr (trtr) of the row, so make one more dtr (trtr) in the last dtr (trtr) of the row. – Picture 12

so, make dtr (trtr) in the fifth st of the initial ch-5. – Picture 13

Row 4: Make ch-5, turn over and make dtr (trtr) in the same stitch (increase). – Picture 14

Make dtr (trtr) in the next five stitches. As you can see we increased every row by one stitch. – Picture 15

And now you know how and where to do the increase. You only have to repeat the second and the third row until you reach the widest point of the shawl.
In the second row we did the increase at the beginning of the row – in the first stitch. In the third row we did the increase at the end of the row – in the next-to-last stitch, which is dtr (trtr). The last stitch is ch-5.
So, repeat the second and the third row until you achieve the desired width. Now, we are going to do the decrease in every row, on the same side of the shawl where we did the increase.

When you achieve the desired width, make ch-5, turn over, make 1 dtr (trtr) in every stitch, until you reach the last dtr (trtr) of the row, which is the next-to-last stitch. Now we’re going to make dtr 2tog (trtr2tog) – Picture 16

make an “incomplete” dtr (trtr) – yo three times, insert your needle into the next dtr (trtr), pull up a loop, [yo, draw the yarn through two loops] three times, and now stop. You should have 2 loops on the hook. – Picture 17

Make one more “incomplete” dtr (trtr) in the fifth chain of ch-5; now you should have 3 loops on your hook. – Picture 18

yo and draw the yarn through all three loops. We’ve just done the decrease at the end of the row. – Picture 19

Now, we’re going to do the decrease at the beginning of the row, so make ch-5; – Picture 20

make an “incomplete” dtr (trtr) in the next stitch; – Picture 21

make another “incomplete dtr (trtr) in the next stitch – you should have three loops on the hook; – Picture 22

yo, and draw the yarn through all three loops on your hook. – Picture 23

continue working 1 dtr (trtr) in each stitch until you reach the end of the row; – Picture 24

make ch-5, turn over, make 1 dtr (trtr) in each stitch; – Picture 25

make 1 “incomplete” dtr (trtr) in the last two stitches; – Picture 26

yo, and draw the yarn through all three loops on the hook. – Picture 27

Again, we’re going to do the decrease at the beginning of the row, so make ch-5, turn over, make an “incomplete” dtr (trtr) in the next two stitches, – Picture 28

yo, and draw the yarn through all three loops. – Picture 29

Now, you just have to repeat those two rows – the row where you do the decrease at the end of the row, and the row where you do the decrease at the beginning of the row, until you’re left with only four stitches. Cut the yarn and fasten off. – Picture 30

And now you have it! Very easy and simple to make beautiful crochet shawl pattern!

Feel free to sell the finished products made from this pattern, but please link back to my site: dadasplace for credit. And, please don’t use my pictures to sell your work.

Although this pattern is free, it is copyright protected, so please don’t sell or publish this pattern anywhere, don’t translate it, or make YouTube videos without my permission. Thank you for respecting my work!

Hope you will like the pattern, and maybe will try it out! If so, I would love to see it! Please be free to share it to my Facebook page, or on Instagram, and use hash tag #enjoythesilenceshawl. I’m looking forward to seeing your beautiful creations, it will bring me a lot of joy!

Free Crochet Pattern: The Whisper of Joy Blanket

12/02/2018 by Dada Filed Under: Crochet baby blanket patterns, Crochet blankets, Free crochet patterns 21 Comments

I named this blanket “The Whisper Of Joy” because it reminds me of childhood, of that carefree time when joy was an important part of almost every long, seemingly endless day. So, I tried to bring you at least a little joy with this colorful and easy to make free blanket pattern.

Now, you might be wondering “why a free pattern?” The answer is: because I know that you love free stuff, and I appreciate you very much, my loyal followers, and I wanted to give you something! The free crochet pattern is the best gift for anyone who enjoys crocheting, especially making crochet blankets. (As I do.) So, here it is, my gift to you!

This blanket is made of 64 granny squares. Each square has only four rows. The squares are joined with single crochet. The border is very simple and has 5 rows.

This tutorial is written in US crochet terms.

Skill level: Advanced beginner – Intermediate

Yarn: Alize
● 2 skeins of Alize Cotton Gold Batik 3304 – color A (100g/330m 3.53Oz/361yds)
● 3 skeins of Alize Cotton Gold 62 – color B (100g/330m 3.53Oz/361yds)

Crochet hook: 4 mm (US – G / 6)

Size: 82 cm (32”) x 82 cm (32”)

Gauge: the square measures 10 cm (4”) x 10 cm (4”)

Stitch guide:

Chain stitch (ch): Yarn over, draw yarn through loop on hook.

Slip stitch (slip st): Insert the hook into stitch, yarn over and draw yarn through stitch and through loop on your hook.

Single crochet (sc): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw yarn through both loops on hook.

Half double crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw yarn through three loops on hook.

Double crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, draw yarn through two loops, yarn over, draw yarn through two remaining loops on hook.

Treble crochet (tr): Yarn over twice, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop (four loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through two loops (three loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through two loops (two loops on hook), yo, draw yarn through two remaining loops on hook.

5 dc Popcorn stitch: ch-3, make 4 dc in same space, drop loop from hook, insert hook from front to back between ch-3 and first dc, grab dropped loop, yarn over, draw yarn through two loops on hook.

Standing single crochet: Make a slip knot on your hook. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw yarn through both loops on hook.

So, let’s get started!

With Color A: We will start with a magic ring. Make ch-5 in the ring. (counts as tr + ch-1) – Picture 1

Make * tr, ch-1 in the ring. – Picture 2

Repeat from * ten more times; you should have 12 tr, ch-1 between each tr. – Picture 3

Pull the yarn tail and close the ring. – Picture 4

Join with slip st to the fourth chain of the initial ch-5. – Picture 5

Make slip st in the next ch-1 space. – Picture 6

Make ch-3. Now, we’re going to make a beginning popcorn stitch. – Picture 7

Make 4 dc in the same space; – Picture 8

Drop the loop from your hook and insert it into the third chain of the initial ch-3. – Picture 9

Grab the dropped loop with your hook, yarn over, – Picture 10

and pull the yarn through both loops on the hook. The first popcorn is finished! – Picture 11

Make ch-3, – Picture 12

then 5 dc in the next ch-1 space; – Picture 13

Drop the loop from your hook and insert it under both loops of the first dc of the group of 5 dc; – Picture 14

Grab the dropped loop, yarn over, – Picture 15

and draw the yarn through both loops on your hook; make ch-3; – Picture 16

Make * 5 dc popcorn stitch in the next ch-1 space, ch-3; – Picture 17

Repeat from * nine more times; – Picture 18

Join with slip st to the top of the beginning popcorn. You should have 12 popcorns with ch-3 between each popcorn. – Picture 19

Insert Color B into any ch-3 space and make ch-3; – Picture 20

make dc in the same space; – Picture 21

make 4 dc in the next ch-3 space; – Picture 22

Continue making 4 dc into each ch-3 space, until you reach the beginning of the round; – Picture 23

make 2 dc in the first ch-3 space where you’ve already made ch-3 and dc; (48 dc) – Picture 24

Join with slip st to the top of the initial ch-3; – Picture 25

make ch-2 (counts as hdc), then hdc in the next dc; – Picture 26

make dc in the next 3 dc; – Picture 27

 make tr in the same stitch, where you’ve just made dc; – Picture 28

(tr, ch-2, tr) in the next dc; – Picture 29

make * (tr, dc) in the next stitch, dc in the next 2 dc, hdc in the next 5 dc, dc in the next 2 dc, (dc, tr) in the next dc, (tr, ch-2, tr) in the next dc; – Picture 30

repeat from * two more times; – Picture 31

make (tr, dc) in the next dc, dc in the next 2 dc, hdc in the next 3 dc; – Picture 32

Now, we’re going to make an invisible join. Cut the yarn and pull it through the stitch. – Picture 33

Thread the tapestry needle. Skip the initial ch-2 and insert your needle under both loops of the next hdc, from back to front and pull it through. – Picture 34

Insert your needle back to the last hdc you made, through the back loop only and pull it through. – Picture 35

Weave in the yarn end.

The finished square! – Picture 36

How to join the squares

● When you finish all 64 squares needed for the blanket, it’s time to join them together. We’re going to join our squares with single crochet.
● We will first join together all the horizontal rows, and then all the vertical rows.
● We’ll start from the top right-hand corner and we’ll join the squares together from right to left.
● I decided to join my squares with the same color I used for the background, but you can choose to use some contrast color, and make the blanket even more interesting and unique.
● For the best result block your squares before joining.

Lay out your squares in the way you want them to appear on the blanket. – Picture 37

I like to make a pile of squares for each row – so I don’t have to think about which square I should join next. – Picture 38

Now, we’re going to join our first two horizontal rows together, so, take the first two squares, one from the first pile and one from the second pile. – Picture 39

Put them together – facing wrong sides together. Line up your squares so the edges and stitches match. – Picture 40

Make a slip knot on your hook, because we’re going to make a standing single crochet. – Picture 41

Insert the hook from front to back through ch-2 space of both squares, and make standing sc (yo, pull up a loop, yo, and draw the yarn through both loops on your hook). Make sc in the same space. – Picture 42

Now, we’re going to make sc in the next stitch. Be sure to pull the hook through both squares, and both loops – front and back. – Picture 43

Work 1 sc in each stitch until you reach the left corner of the square. Make 1 sc in ch-2 space. – Picture 44

Take the next two squares facing wrong sides together and lean them against the first two squares. – Picture 45

Keeping them close together, make 1 sc in ch-2 space. – Picture 46

Keep working 1 sc in every stitch. When you’ve joined the second pair of squares, take another 2 and repeat the procedure until you join all 8 pairs of squares. – Picture 47

When you reach the corner of the last pair of squares, make 2 sc in ch-2 space. Fasten off. – Picture 48

These are our two first horizontal rows joined together. – Picture 49

Now, we will join the third row to the second one.

Take a square from your third pile and hold it against the first square of the second row, facing wrong sides together. – Picture 50

Make standing sc in ch-2 of the corner, then 1 sc in the same space. Continue joining the third row in the same way you joined the first two horizontal rows. Don’t forget to make 2 sc in the left corner of the last pair of squares. – Picture 51

Continue joining horizontal rows in the same way you’ve already joined your first three rows. To finish joining all 8 horizontal rows, you need to repeat this procedure five more times. – Picture 52

We will join the vertical rows in the same way we joined the horizontal rows. We’ll work from right to left. Start with the squares in the upper right hand corner.

Make standing sc in ch-2 space of the corner, sc in the same space, work 1 sc in each stitch, until you reach the join of two squares; – Picture 53

make 1 hdc in the last stitch before the join, ch-1, 1 hdc in the first stitch after the join. – Picture 54

Continue joining the squares until you join together all of your vertical rows. Don’t forget to make 2 sc in the left corner of the last pair of squares of each row. Weave in the yarn ends. – Picture 55

Now, we just have to make our simple border.

We will start the border in the fourth stitch to the right of the left corner. – Picture 56

Attach the yarn and make ch-2 (counts as hdc), make hdc in the next three stitches; – Picture 57

make (hdc, ch-3, hdc) in the next ch-2 space; – Picture 58

Continue making 1 hdc in each stitch. When you reach the join of two squares, make hdc in the last stitch before the join, and hdc in the first stitch after the join. – Picture 59

Make 1 hdc in each stitch around the blanket, in the corners make: (hdc, ch-3, hdc) in ch-2 space. – Picture 60

When you reach the beginning of the row, join with slip stitch to the top of the beginning ch-2; make slip stitch in the next hdc. – Picture 61

make ch-4 (counts as dc + ch-1), skip the next hdc, make dc in the next hdc; – Picture 62

ch-1, skip the next hdc, (dc, ch-3, dc) in the next ch-3 space; – Picture 63

* ch-1, skip the next hdc, dc in the next hdc; repeat from * around the blanket. In the corners make (dc, ch-3, dc) in ch-3 space. When you reach the beginning of the row, ch-1, join with slip st to the third chain of the initial ch-4; we’ve just completed the second row of the border. The third row is the same as the second, so make ch-4 (counts as dc + ch-1), skip the next ch-1 space, dc in the next dc; work ch-1, skip the next ch-1 space, dc in the next dc around the blanket. In the corners make: (dc, ch-3, dc) in ch-3 space. – Picture 64

When you reach the beginning of the row, join with slip st to the third chain of the initial ch-4, then repeat the third row. – Picture 65

Join with slip st to the third chain of the initial ch-4; – Picture 66

Now, we’re going to make a simple row of single crochet along the blanket.

make ch-1, sc in the same stitch; – Picture 67

* make sc in the next ch-1 space, sc in the next dc; repeat from * around the blanket; – Picture 68

in the corners make 3 hdc in ch-3 space; – Picture 69

We will finish the blanket with an invisible join, so cut the yarn and pull it through the stitch. Thread a tapestry needle. – Picture 70

skip ch-1 and insert your needle under both loops of the next sc, from back to front and pull it through; – Picture 71

insert your needle into the last sc you made, in back loop only, from front to back and pull it through. – Picture 72

This is how my invisible join looks. – Picture 73

Feel free to sell the finished products made from this pattern, but please link back to my site: dadasplace for credit. And, please don’t use my pictures to sell your work.

Although this pattern is free, it is copyright protected, so please don’t sell or publish this pattern anywhere, don’t translate it, or make YouTube videos without my permission. Thank you for respecting my work!

Hope you will like the pattern, and maybe will try it out! If so, I would love to see it! Please be free to share it to my Facebook page, or on Instagram, and use hash tag #whisperofjoyblanket. I’m looking forward to seeing your beautiful creations, and that will bring me a lot of joy!

Free Primavera flower blanket joining and border tutorial

24/11/2017 by Dada Filed Under: Crochet blankets, Free crochet patterns 56 Comments

The Primavera flower square is undoubtedly my most popular free tutorial. I’m so happy and grateful that so many of you gave it a try and made really beautiful blankets and pillowcases. Since I didn’t write the tutorial for the whole blanket, many of you asked me how I had joined the squares and made the border, so I decided to make those tutorials too, so anyone who wants to make the exact same blanket as I did, now can do so.

Ok, I’ve already shown you how to make the Primavera flower granny square. (Click here to check it out if you haven’t already) Now, I will show you how to easily join them together with single crochet. This joining method is very simple. So, let’s get started!

Crochet terms: This tutorial is written using standard US crochet terms. UK terms are given in brackets.

Skill level: Beginner

Yarn: For this Primavera flower blanket I used 100% cotton yarn 125m/50g “Tanja” from Bimtex (manufacturer from Serbia)

We will use the following stitches: slip stitch, single crochet (double crochet), standing single crochet (standing double crochet), chain stitch, half double crochet (half treble crochet), 5dc popcorn stitch (5 tr popcorn stitch) and invisible join.

Stitches:

Slip stitch (slip st): Insert the hook into stitch, yarn over and draw yarn through stitch and through loop on your hook.

Single crochet (sc): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw yarn through both loops on hook.

Standing single crochet: Make a slip knot on your hook. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw yarn through both loops on hook.

Chain stitch (ch): Yarn over, draw yarn through loop on hook.

Half double crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and draw yarn through three loops on hook.

5 dc Popcorn stitch: ch-3, make 4 dc in same space, drop loop from hook, insert hook from front to back between ch-3 and first dc, grab dropped loop, yarn over, draw yarn through two loops on hook.

Lay out your squares in the way you want them to appear on your blanket. We will first join together all the horizontal rows, and then all the vertical ones. We’ll start form the top right hand corner and we’ll join the squares together from right to left.

My blanket has 64 granny squares in total, eight horizontal rows, and eight vertical ones. I decided to join my squares with white color, but you can choose to use the same color as the background of the squares, or whatever other color you like. The choice is all yours, so be creative!

I like to make a pile of squares for each row – the first square is at the top of the pile, and the last one is at the bottom. That way I don’t have to think about which square I should join next.
(Picture 1)

We will start with standing single crochet, so make a slip knot on your hook. (Picture 2)

Now, we’re going to join our first two horizontal rows together, so you will need the first squares from the pile no. 1 and no. 2. (Picture 3)

Take the first square from both piles and put them together – facing wrong sides together. Line up your squares so the edges and stitches match. (Picture 4)

Insert your hook from front to back through ch-2 space of both squares, and make standing single crochet (standing double crochet) (Picture 5)

Make single crochet (double crochet) in the same space. (Picture 6)

Now, we’re going to make sc (dc) in the next stitch. Be sure to pull the hook through both squares, and both loops – front and back. (Picture 7)

Finished sc (dc) (Picture 8)

Continue working 1 sc (dc) into every stitch. (Picture 9)

When you reach the left corner, make 1 sc (dc) in ch-2 space. (Picture 10)

Take the next pair of squares facing wrong sides together and lean them against the first two squares. (Picture 11)

Keeping them close together, make 1 sc (dc) in the next ch-2 space. (Picture 12)

Keep working 1 sc (dc) into every stitch. When you’ve joined the second pair of squares, take the third pair (Picture 13) and repeat the procedure until you have joined all 8 pairs (my case) of squares. When you reach the left corner of the last pair of squares, make 2 sc (dc) in ch-2 space.

These are my first two rows joined together. (Picture 14)

Now, take the third pile of squares and join the third row in the same way you joined the first and the second row together. (Picture 15)

Continue joining horizontal rows in the same way until you have joined them all together.  (Picture 16)

We will join the vertical rows in the same way we joined the horizontal rows. We’ll work from right to left. Start with the squares in the upper right hand corner.

Join the first two squares in the same way we joined the horizontal squares before, until you reach the point where your horizontal join meets your vertical join. Make hdc (htr) in the last stitch before the join, ch-1, then make hdc (htr) in the first stitch after the join. (Picture 17)

When you reach the second join, repeat the previous procedure. (Picture 18)

These are my first two vertical rows joined together. (Picture 19) Don’t forget to make 2 sc (dc) in the left corner of the last pair of squares.

Continue joining the squares until you join together all of your vertical rows. Don’t forget to make 2 sc (dc) in the left corner of the last pair of squares of each row. Weave in the yarn ends. (Picture 20)

Now, we just have to make the border!

We will start the border with standing sc (dc), so make a slip knot on your hook. Make standing sc (dc) in any stitch. Work 1 sc (dc) in each stitch until you reach the join of two squares. (Picture 21)

Make 1 hdc (htr) into the last stitch before the join, and 1 hdc (htr) into the first stitch after the join. (Picture 22)

Continue working 1 sc (dc) into each stitch; When you reach the corner make 3 hdc (htr) into ch-2 space. (Picture 23)

Work 1 sc (dc) along the blanket until you reach the beginning of the row. (Picture 24)

Join with slip st to the standing sc (dc), make ch-1, then sc (dc) in the same stitch. (Picture 25)

The second row is the same as the first, so make 1 sc (dc) into each stitch, until you reach the corner. (Picture 26)

Make 3 sc (dc) in the second hdc (htr) of the group of 3 hdc (htr) we made previously in ch-2 space of the corner. (Picture 27)

Work 1 sc (dc) into each stitch along the blanket until you reach the beginning of the second row. (Picture 28)

Join with slip st to the first sc (dc), make ch-1, then sc (dc) into the same stitch. (Picture 29)

Work 1 sc (dc) into each stitch; When you reach the corner, make 3 sc (dc) in the second sc (dc) of the group of 3 sc (dc) (Picture 30)

Continue working 1 sc (dc) in each stitch, and make 2 sc (dc) in one stitch on each side of the blanket. We need an extra stitch on each side of the blanket for the border later. (Picture 31)

When you reach the beginning of the row, cut the yarn and pull it through the stitch. (Picture 32) We’re going to make an invisible join.

Thread a tapestry needle. Skip the first sc (dc) and insert your needle under both loops of the next sc (dc) from back to front and pull it through. (Picture 33)

Insert the needle back into the last sc (dc) you made, from front to back, through the back loop only, and pull it through. (Picture 34)

Now, we have to count the stitches from the corner stitch, so I marked it with a pin. It’s the second sc (dc) of the group of 3 sc (dc). (Picture 35)

Count six stitches to the right of the corner stitch. Insert the white yarn into that stitch and make ch-3 (counts as hdc (htr) + ch-1). (Picture 36)

Skip the next st, make hdc (htr) into the next stitch, ch-1, skip the next st, hdc (htr) in the next stich, ch-1; (Picture 37)

Skip the next stitch, make hdc (htr) into the next stitch (corner stitch), ch-2, hdc (htr) into the same stitch. We just made the first corner. (Picture 38)

Make * ch-1, skip the next stitch, hdc (htr) into the next stitch; Repeat from * along the blanket. In the corners make: hdc (htr), ch-2, hdc (htr) into the same stitch. (Picture 39)

When you reach the beginning of the row, make ch-1; (Picture 40)

Join with slip st to the second chain of the initial ch-3. (Picture 41)

Make slip st into the next ch-1 space. (Picture 42)

Skip the next hdc (htr) and make another slip st into the next ch-1 space. (Picture 43)

Now, we’re going to make a popcorn stitch, so make ch-3. (Picture 44)

Make 3 dc (tr) in the same chain space; (Picture 45)

Drop the lop from your hook, and insert it between the initial ch-3 and the first dc (tr) of the group of 3 dc (tr); (Picture 46)

Grab the dropped loop with your hook, (Picture 47)

yarn over, (Picture 48)

and pull the yarn through both loops on your hook. (Picture 49)

Make ch-3; (Picture 50)

then make slip stitch in the same space. (Picture 51)

Make slip st in the next 2 chain spaces, then ch-3; (Picture 52)

Make popcorn stitch, ch-3, slip st in the same space. (Picture 53)

Make * slip st in the next two ch-1 spaces, ch-3, popcorn stitch, ch-3, slip st in the same space; Repeat from * around the blanket. (Picture 54)

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, and if you make your own Primavera flower blanket I would love to see it! You can post your pictures on my Facebook page, or share on social media. Please use the hashtag #primaveraflowerblanket

Happy crocheting!

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